31 July 2014

20 July 2014: Horses

This post, which I am writing on a transatlantic airplane flight, will be the first in awhile that deals with one day only (though some recent days could have had their own posts, whether by amount of possible material or amount that I actually wrote).

Awhile ago, I mentioned that A. and V. wanted to take me to see these horses, but that I didn’t really get what we were supposed to do with them. As it turns out, neither had they: we went there after church on Sunday the 20th, and only at that point did I understand that none of us had actually ever been there before.

The horses live on the other side of Mount Kigali, which is a big, forested mountain that I believe peaks at the highest point in the city. Nyamirambo and Nyakabanda are built on its slopes—and, as such, I see it every day when I walk outside. The dwellings stop at a certain height, and give way to what I believe is a eucalyptus forest. (Eucalyptus trees are not endemic to Rwanda, but I have heard they were introduced in large numbers after massive deforestation for fuel in the wake of the Genocide.) Somewhere up there, there is also a military base, for which reason it may not be a good idea to just wander around in the forest alone.

The walk to find the horses was a lot of fun, actually—at least for me. We never left the “City of Kigali” (Umujyi wá Kigali), but we definitely did leave the city of Kigali. Walking up the slopes of the mountain, we first reached the end of the bus line, then the pavement turned to cobblestone, then the cobblestone changed to dirt, which got rougher and steeper as we kept climbing. Similarly, the dwellings got smaller and more informal, and the views progressively more dramatic.

We probably didn’t get to the highest point, but we did actually end up starting down the other side of the mountain. At that point, the vistas we saw probably did extend into the Western Province, and we saw banana plantations, farmland and winding rivers stretching off into the mist.

I thought this was great, though the others started to complain about all the walking. It was a bit of a relief when we arrived at this place, which from the signs appeared to be a stable where you could ride horses around.

I guess we didn’t actually see most of it, but what we did was kind of underwhelming. There was a small stable with four horses in it, and they were available to ride, but at ludicrous prices. If I remember correctly, it was Fr. 20,000 (about $29) for an hour, which does not sound like it would be cheap for such a service in the U.S., and probably works out to the average monthly income of a Kigali resident.

They kindly offered to let us ride for Fr. 10,000 for a half-hour, or pay just 5,000 ($7.19) to sit on the horse while it didn’t move for a few minutes. This was all kind of laughable, so we contented ourselves just petting them and feeding them hay.

Again, I thought this was fun, and though some of the animals were a little feisty they all responded to patience and caution. The others were a little less cautious, and a little less patient, and more than once almost got bitten. A. remarked that she would “ride them in heaven, because there they won’t bite!”

An interesting footnote to the story is that we also saw a donkey on the same property. Only one of the three of them really knew the difference between a horse and a donkey, and she only to the extent that Jesus rode a donkey, not a horse. Now, that little passage from the Bible has a lot of spiritual significance: the donkey as a symbol of humility, as opposed to the prestige of the horse. Neither horses nor donkeys are native to Rwanda, though; it’s just funny to think that that cultural reference is completely lost on the millions of devout Christians in this country. I am sure it is explained to them, and I do think that V. got the gist, but still.

On our way back, we took a bit of a detour through the woods. I thought this was a pretty risky thing to do, having heard there was a military base around there and also having noticed that the sun was going down soon. I followed, though, because it looked like they knew where they were going. They did, and as it happened we were actually going to a place that people generally knew about (though it really didn’t look like it).

It was kind of just a slope in the woods, with a solid, nicely spaced stand of eucalyptus trees (if that is what they were). And a bunch of other people had gotten there ahead of us to take photographs of each other using the trees as a backdrop. I had my camera, of course, and one of the others had a smart phone, and we proceeded to do exactly that. (These were mostly kind of cutesy, posed pictures from all different angles; I don’t much care for them, and as such I don’t appear in many, but I—or at least my camera—was pressed into service dozens of times.)

It was a nice, scenic place, and I am glad we went. Generally, I was glad that, even though I wasn’t getting “out” of Kigali, at least I got to see a break from my normal, day-to-day work of researching and bussing my way around the city. And hey, I thought the horses were kind of nice!

25 July 2014

18–19 July 2014: A Walk and a Concert

Friday, 18 July 2014

I occupied myself with various projects during the day. I had said I would meet A. and V. and family for church, and I remembered the starting time as 5:30 p.m. I got there right on time, only to find that it had in fact started at 5:00 p.m., and their houseworker (J.) said they would be back at 7:30 p.m. So I wandered around for a long time, walking the length of Nyamirambo and even into Gitega, then back. It still wasn’t 7:30, so I walked around the bend toward Nyabugogo, and then back. And then they were late coming back from church, of course. They got there, though, and because they got in after 8:00 they felt like they had to give me dinner, which was fine, of course.

The long walk was a good opportunity to just think about a lot of stuff; my head had been filled for the whole day with thoughts about upcoming fellowship applications, and how to handle those, and that got me thinking about the future and life after graduation, which was stressful. But I find that walks are a great way to tackle problems like that: think them through rationally and in depth, and then move on to other things. I think it worked.

Granted, I wasn’t outside much before the evening, but I only remembered as I was going to bed that 18 July was the twentieth anniversary of the end of genocide in Rwanda. I’m sure there was something on television, but maybe all of people’s energy had been directed toward the April commemorations and then Liberation Day earlier this month, so as far as I could tell it sorta just came and went.


Saturday, 19 July 2014

In the evening I went out to Amahoro Stadium in Remera-ish, to see the so-called “Rwandan music festival,” Kigali Up. I knew a guy from Harvard who was going to be there, and I remembered the food being good, so I went. Also, it was a sort of conventional thing to do in Kigali, which there are not all that many of!

Upon arrival, it became clear that most Rwandans did not feel like Kigali needed such a thing to do. The turnout bordered on decent at 6:00-ish when I got there, and improved over the next couple of hours, but what struck me was the demographics: almost all under the age of 30, and at least half obviously foreign. I started brainstorming other places in the world where you might see this balance of ages and ethnicities at a concert, and I didn’t come up with very many; then again, maybe expat communities in other developing countries behave similarly to the one here.

Another interesting observation was that, though the turnout was not all that bad, the audience was pretty unenthusiastic. Part of this was language barrier: musicians often introduced themselves and tried to buzz the crowd in Kinyarwanda, which didn’t work too well on the rest of us. Additionally, I have a theory that because so many expats in Kigali are here to do research, nonprofit or public health work, they’re all nerds who are far more comfortable at the weekly Sol e Luna trivia nights than live concerts. First, I totally fall into this category; second, it’s probably not true, merely one explanation for the lack of enthusiasm I saw at Kigali Up!

The music was fine, if kind of uneven. One or two performers were very good, but there was a lot of time between songs and it was easy to let one’s mind wander. My friend, who is interning in an emergency room at CHUK (a hospital in town), compared the level of engagement to watching surgery videos on YouTube. He qualified this by adding that watching surgery videos is something he does frequently, and they’re actually kind of interesting, but point taken.

I had gone last year, and this was approximately my memory of the way things were. Admittedly, a major reason I wanted to come back was the food: a number of local restaurants cater the concert, and I liked the idea of eating something different from my hosts’ food. (My hosts’ food is really good, by the way, and I ate that too after I got home, but variety is nice.) Also, it’s fun to spend not that much money and get a lot of food. I spent a locally egregious amount—Fr. 5,400 ($7.77)—and, despite a rather expensive (Fr. 2,500/$3.60) smoothie in there, still came away with a pretty nice haul: in addition to the smoothie, I had four goat brochettes, a big cookie and a seasoned meatball.

(In retrospect, I probably should’ve even done better.)

16–17 July 2014: Construction, and Music

16 July 2014

Today I spent about half an hour walking around the City Center taking photographs of things that have noticeably changed since last year. I will post some of them below. When I get the chance, I want to try to line them up with others I took last year, just to illustrate the difference—the problem, of course, is that it’s kind of hard to know what is going to change before it does!

Actually, that’s not quite true: construction projects post big signs as required by law giving descriptions of the building being built, who’s building it, etc. Just last year, I wasn’t thinking so much on my feet as to take pictures of those sites. (I should really do that this year, now that I think about it.)

Afterward, I met up with a family friend who runs a sewing cooperative in Rulindo, outside of Kigali. She came with an intern (a college student), and we had a nice conversation before I accompanied them to buy cloth in town.

Last year, this was a big pile of dirt: not just the parking garage, but also the feeder road in the foreground.

Every man-made object in this frame, except for the sign and the blue fence, was not there a year ago.

The building in the background was all covered with green scaffolding a year ago. The sewer in the foreground was open. The sidewalk on the right was not yet paved, and since this picture was taken the fencing has been removed and it is open to pedestrians.


17 July 2014

Today I met the minister of education. He is a very nice man, and apparently a family friend of my hosts. (They grew up as neighbors north of the city.) We had lunch together with some others, and he was at least politely interested in the research work I was doing. His house is very nice, and—predictably and understandably for a government minister, he appears to live the life of a wealthy American (though the comparison is not perfect). He asked whether my research permit (granted by his ministry) was taking too long to come back; at the time it was not, so I didn’t say anything.

In retrospect, after interacting with someone obviously more important than me (or otherwise somehow intimidating), I am interested to think about how my behavior changed in the moment. First, I was rather shy about speaking Kinyarwanda: nervous that I might say something ungrammatical, conscious that I wouldn’t understand half of what he said, maybe wanting to preserve the possibility in his mind that I was actually fluent and just choosing not to show it! Second, I do have a number of questions and opinions about education in Rwanda, to which I would have been curious to hear his responses. I had all sorts of reasons at the time for not asking about them, and I was just about to when he had to get back to work. Oh well.

The other noteworthy event of the day was that, in wandering around the Nyabugogo taxi park/bus terminal before lunch, I happened upon a couple of people selling religious books, which included a hymnal! I had been hoping to find one of these (and I think my parents were interested too), but Kinyarwanda-language books are not easy to track down, even in the capital of Rwanda! (I know of just two dedicated bookstores in Kigali, plus a third that sells only schoolbooks and a fourth attached to a church.)

They were selling it for Fr. 1,500 ($2.16), so of course I bought it. It is a trade paperback, printed in Rwanda by the local Pentacostal Church:

Association des Églises de Pentecôte du Rwanda. Indirimbo zo Gushimisha Imana: Indirimbo z’Agakiza. Kigali: Éditions CELTA, n.d.

The hymns are all in Kinyarwanda (lovely) and all untitled (why?). They are taken from a wide variety of other hymnals (listed at the beginning), and mostly translated from French and English. The most interesting part at first glance, though, is the musical notation, which is all typed with no staff. This makes perfect sense given the machinery likely available to the printers. Here is how they print the melody of one song, which—from the section heading (Kuvuka kwa Yesu “Birth of Christ”) and the refrain pattern—I noticed is a translation of “O Come, All Ye Faithful”:

la(235)
:d |d :— |s, :d |r :— |s, :— |m :r |m :f |m :— |r ||
:d |d :— |t, :l, |t, :d |r :m |t, :— |l, :–.s, |s, :— |— ||
: |s :— |f :m |f :— |m :— |r :m |d :r |t, :–.l, |s, ||
:d |d :t, |d :r |d :— |s, ||m |m :r |m :f |m :— |r ||
:m |f :m |r :d |t, :— |d ||f |m :— |r :–.d |d :— |— ||

It’s a pretty smart solution, I think, to the problem at hand, as it finds a way of adequately notating melodies with no need for specialized software. Vertical bars are beats, colons half-beats, periods quarter-beats. The letters are notes: do (d), re (r), mi (m), etc. The key is in the upper-left, and notes that are down the octave are marked by a small vertical bar that looks close enough to a comma. (I may be misinterpreting something.) I would be curious to know whether this is an accepted alternate system, or something the Pentecostals made up for this book.

The major issue with it is that, for someone who is used to the normal staff notation, it is very difficult to read! I like being able to see that one note is above another, and though, granted, it’s my first time, I have a lot of trouble associating those letters with even relative pitches.

A final note: I respect whoever did these translations (uncredited), because they wrote lyrics that acknowledge the ellision of final vowels in most Kinyarwanda words. The Jehovah’s Witnesses’ hymnal does not do this, thus giving full syllables’s emphasis to sounds that are usually unpronounced, thus making generally awkward-sounding songs.

Both, however, ignore the importance of vowel length in the language. Taking this into account would make translating lyrics an even harder task than it already is, but having longer and shorter notes that do not correspond to longer and shorter vowels must make the song flow less nicely. (I think it would be fantastically cool if the songs also aligned their tunes to the tone melodies of their lyrics, but no one ever does this—I think—and it would have made good translations pretty near impossible!)

21 July 2014

12–15 July 2014: Research, Research, Mass Transit

More catching up. At some point, you’ll notice that the things I did on individual days become a little less interesting, because I started getting actually busy with research. I like to divide up the days for my own purposes, though: in addition to the various other objectives of a travel blog—sharing my experiences, keeping friends and family abreast of what I do, telling anyone who is interested about life as a foreign student in Kigali—this serves as a record for me. I would like to be able to, in the future, refer to what I have written here to remember the things I did, whether interesting or comparatively mundane.


Saturday, 12 July 2014

The dissertations I had been lent the day before totaled 893 pages in length, which was clearly too much to read thoroughly in the time I had left. In thinking what the best strategy would be, I decided my first priority should be to make digital copies of all of these, so that I would still be able to refer to them at home. So I started photographing every page (and I have an iPad app that will turn pictures of pages into something resembling a black-and-white PDF file).

There is an additional motive here, that perhaps I could find a way to get these PDFs on the Internet, or into some American libraries, at some point. The goal of scholarship is to build on past work—to “stand on the shoulders of giants”—but this is not generally possible, especially for foreigners but even for a lot of Rwandans, because the sources they would need to find are so often unpublished dissertations! I want to talk to someone about this, and figure out how it would be possible/feasible, both technically and copyright-wise.

In the evening, I went to have brochettes with a friend (whose brother’s wedding I attended a year ago). It was fun. I think it’s interesting how brochettes—pieces of meat on a skewer with a flavorful seasoning—are just about the universal food that people eat here when they go out for drinks after work, have parties or want to have a nicer-than-average meal. I really can’t fault them, as brochettes are really good when done right, and I think a contributing factor is the relative scarcity of meat in the average person’s diet. It’s just funny that the food is such a strong indicator of a kind of social event.


Sunday, 13 July 2014

I went to church this day; the guy giving the discourse (the self-prepared monologue on a specific topic) really didn’t enunciate, as I confirmed later, to my great relief. (I barely understood a word he said.) The topic of discussion for the week was actually quite awkward: how to reason with potential converts on points of religious contention, and sympathize with their point of view in order to more effectively persuade them.

As the only non-Witness in attendance, I was a little bit concerned. On the way back, A. did ask me about whether I believed in eternal hellfire; luckily, neither I nor the Watchtower Bible and Tract Society of Pennsylvania acknowledge such a thing. But she didn’t go any further, and I was impressed that the congregation broadly recognized and respected that I was a guest: interested in a new experience but not a new religion.

In any case, interestingly, most of the proposed arguments presupposed that the target would accept proof from the Bible in order to change his religious views (for instance, citing Philippians 2:9 to prove that God and Jesus are separate entities). Many of the people they try to convert may not already be Christian, though, right? Or, especially in the West, they may be agnostics, atheists or lapsed Christians. I have no doubt that they deal with such cases elsewhere, though!

My own objections to the Witnesses’ faith in particular would be about biblical literalism (and resulting social conservatism) and the missionary culture, which the study session did not address. You may read the article that served as the basis for the discussion here.

With the rest of my day, I did some more research work.


Monday, 14 July 2014

In addition to photographing the books I have been lent, I have been trying to think of how putting them online might work. In its ideal form, there would be a website that served as a source for Rwandan scholarship of all kinds, that would include original PDFs of the documents as well as text versions in the original language, and translated to English where relevant.

This is a pie-in-the-sky hope. I mean, maybe it will happen, but it is way beyond the scope of what I would be able to accomplish. Thinking more conservatively (though still fairly ambitiously), I would upload PDFs of the files I have now, and then not convert them to text but provide English-language summaries so that people could access the important information from a search-engine.

The tentative model would be to reproduce in full the table of contents and bibliography of the work, as well as any tables, images, examples and citations. There would then be summaries of each section (and subsection, etc.) that included relevant information in addition to the above, and all would reference pages of the original document (accessible as a PDF, remember).

So I started (and would continue over the next few days) to test this out with one of the documents, by Mudeénge on Kiréera. It naturally took longer than I expected, but in addition to making a useful result it ensures that I understand the material I am reading, which is a pretty good thing.


Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Tuesday morning was actually my third trip to the Rwanda Utilities Regulatory Agency (RURA), though I did not blog about the first two because I wanted the whole story to appear together.

First, RURA is a pretty cool organization: it takes responsibility for regulating Rwanda’s telecommunications, transportation, electricity and other utilities; it does a lot in this capacity, I am sure, but as far as I am concerned one of the most useful things it does is compile statistics about each of these sectors. For instance, it publishes reports about mobile phone usage in Rwanda, comparing subscriptions, costs and other measures between the different service providers, several times a year. (I have been meaning to do a post comparing the three providers, using that as a source.)

What I am curious about, though, is the data that I know RURA collects about the Kigali public transit system. (“Public transit” is a bit of a misnomer, as the minibuses and buses that carry people around this city are privately owned, albeit heavily regulated.) I have mentioned that I am trying to make a map of it, as no map exists and the only way to figure out where you are going is to ask around until you find the right bus.

I got a nice draft of a map done, but was not able to finish it because there is no publicly available list of bus stops in the city. My reference was a list of routes specified by certain landmarks they would pass, but between those points I did not know either what the stops were called or how many there were.

Before going on, I should mention that the reference I used—posted at many of the city’s bus stops—exists because of a complete reorganization of mass transit (a better characterization than “public transit”) that took place shortly after I left Rwanda last year. At that time, minibus taxis were run by a variety of operators, some larger organizations and a number of individuals. They operated on a generally accepted set of routes, but those routes and the prices of traveling on them were regulated solely by the invisible hand of capitalism.

The transit reform that, thanks to RURA and the municipal government, went into effect on 31 August 2013 split the city into five zones: each of four companies (which won some kind of bidding or application process) would be responsible for serving one of the first four zones, and connecting it with the fifth zone (the city center, a common space). They would operate on routes that were similar to those that existed before, but were now fixed (and numbered) and charged fixed prices.

The experience for the commuter is only subtly different: you now (usually) get a small, paper ticket when you get onto the bus, which does not seem to serve much purpose except to tell you the price of your ride. (Maybe they try to track ridership by the number of tickets they distribute.) There is also the element of knowing which bus is going where and how much it will cost you, which I think should not be undervalued.

Before these reforms, making a map of bus routes in Kigali would have been all but impossible; now it is possible, though it still has not been done. This is where I hope I can help, because I like this city and would love to give something back for all it has given me—and also because I think the theory behind mapping public transit is just really cool (see this fantastic TED Talk about remapping the Dublin bus system).

So I went to RURA on Friday, hoping to ask them straight up for a list of bus stops in Kigali. They were closed, and a security guard explained they had all left, I think because of some office soccer game or something. I came back on Monday, and reception redirected me to the Transport Department, which informed me that I could write a formal letter to the Director General of RURA asking for the information I wanted. If he gave the go-ahead, I could have it, no problem. (Bureaucracy, remember?)

Luckily, I had a template for a formal letter from a few days earlier. I wrote it out in English and Kinyarwanda, and printed both copies along with a draft of the map on big A3 paper. (The guys at the print shop were very interested!) I then put them in a nice formal envelope, which I addressed to the director general.

The receptionist, when I presented this to her, promptly opened the sealed envelope and examined the contents. She read both letters, then stapled the Kinyarwanda version to the map to give to the director-general. She then stamped the English version of the letter “for reception”—another interesting, unfamiliar formality—and gave it back to me. Apparently this is standard and expected practice, which made me really glad I had for completely unrelated reasons brought two letters!

So that was exciting. (On the day of writing, I have a meeting scheduled tomorrow morning to talk to someone about this, which I will be sure to tell you all about!)

10–11 July 2014: Flash Drives, Motos, Acronyms and Bureaucracy (Fladrimacrobu)

Hey there. Today (like actually today, 20 July 2014) was actually a day worth blogging about in full, and I will when I get the chance. (I went on a really long, memorable walk, and saw horses!) For now, though, I’ll continue catching up as I did yesterday:


Thursday, 10 July 2014

Having said I would get my research permit application in the very next day, I endeavored to do just that: I got all the materials together, brought my flash drive to a print shop and then scooted over to Mineduc to hand it in, with the promise that I would have the letter from my affiliating organization the next morning. Some notes about that:

  1. This was a U.S.B. flash drive I brought from home. I have actually bought two from street salespeople since my arrival, because they made me feel guilty and were willing to be talked down to very low prices. On both occasions, I soon found out why they could be sold so cheaply: all of my files were corrupted as soon as I copied them over! Maybe it’s just because I have a Mac, but I have my doubts… This led to multiple awkward situations at print shops before, and I am glad I thought to bring my own.
  2. I have taken 14 motos so far, so an average of about one every other day. This is a lot more than I want to be taking them, but it’s fairly often that I have to come home either at rush hour (when mass transit is swamped) or late at night (when it has stopped running). In this case, I just needed to get to Kacyiru before the ministry closed, and I was cutting it close. For comparison, I have taken 68 rides in minibuses.
    • Now that we are on the topic, it is interesting to note that, though I have taken almost five times as many minibuses as motos, I have paid roughly the same total amount of money: Fr. 11,400 ($16.38) for 68 minibus rides, with an average fare of Fr. 168 (24¢) per ride; and Fr. 10,500 ($15.09) for 14 motos, with an average fare of Fr. 750 ($1.08) per ride.
    • I have been keeping meticulous track of my expenditures here; if I have the time, I’ll try to post some analysis once I am home.
  3. I have mentioned before that Rwandans seem to love long acronyms (Bralirwa, Sonarwa, Cottamohu), but their names for government ministries stand out. Hearing “Mineduc” (Ministry of Education) “Minijust” (Ministry of Justice) and “Minispoc” (Ministry of Sport and Culture) is kind of reminiscent of 1984 (where dystopian Oceania is administered by Minitrue, Miniluv, Minipax and Miniplenty). It’s interesting because I would assume that meant there was some European model for it, but I can find none. Some Googling shows that some Latin American countries, including Guatemala and Chile, have adopted a similar practice, but not many others! I would be curious to know more about this.

Friday, 11 July 2014

Rwandan bureaucracy is interesting. It is really intense, requiring formalities and hierarchies that go beyond anything you would find in a developed country. The meticulous administrative division of the country—into provinces, districts, sectors, cells and villages, with subordinate governments at each level—is a good example. Another is the simple fact that one must get a permit to do research. My experience with just one part of that process on this Friday is what prompts the topic.

For my permit renewal, I needed a letter from my in-country affiliating organization (a requirement for initially obtaining the permit) saying why the extension was necessary. The guy I needed to sign it said I could write a draft and bring it to him to sign the next morning, which I did. Upon looking at it, though, he said it just wasn’t right, and that I should go see his secretary at the organization’s headquarters (about 1.2 miles away) and have her write it. I did so; she wrote something up, basically taking my content and making it incredibly formal—including titles after everyone’s name, including my own, and saying things like “It’s against the above that I am glad to request…”

So I brought it back and got it signed, but I wasn’t done! No, I had to go back to headquarters so the secretary could fill in a reference number, make a copy and put an official stamp over the signature (on both copies)! I did so, and finally submitted the letter at Mineduc about five hours after I had left the house (though admittedly I did one or two other things in there also).

It was explained to me that, as Rwanda is just building its infrastructure now, all of the formality is pretty fresh, and no one is willing to let up on it just yet. I think early bureaucracies in the West were similar, but all ultimately loosened up at least somewhat once they figured out what was necessary and what wasn’t. Rwanda is still at an early stage, and though the red tape can be quite bothersome there is good reason to believe that this country’s government operates more efficiently than almost any other on the continent.

While I was at the university, I met that other professor again, who filled my shoulder-bag with six big, decades-old, typewritten dissertations on Rwandan dialects. It was pretty exciting, and also extremely generous of him to just lend them to me. All of them are in French, and I looked forward to the opportunity to get better at reading that language. As much for the public record as for your own interest, here are the titles:

  • Mudeénge Guide. “Phonétique, Phonologie et Morphosyntaxe du Kiréera, Dialecte Du Kinyarwanda.” B.A. Thesis, Université Nationale du Rwanda, 1985. Print.
  • Mukeshimana Joseph. “Les Tons Dans la Dialectologie Rwandaise: Le Cas du Kigoyi.” B.A. Thesis, Université Nationale du Rwanda, 1993. Print.
  • Musabyimaana Constantin. “Etude Sociolinguistique et Linguistique du Kiyaaka, Variete du Nord-Ouest du Rwaanda.” B.A. Thesis, Université Nationale du Rwanda, 1993. Print.
  • Nkusi Laurent. “En Quoi le Kinyarwanda et le Kirundi Sont-Ils Differents?” Linguistique et Sémiologie des Langues au Rwanda. Ed. GERLA. 2 Vol. Ruhengeri: Université Nationale du Rwanda, 1982. 43–59. Print.
  • Nsanzabiga Eugène. “Étude Phonologique et Morphotonologique du Rushobyo, Dialecte du Kinyarwanda.” M.A. Thesis, Université de Nice, 1985. Print.
  • ―. “Phonétique, Phonologie et Morphosyntaxe du Rushobyo: Contribution à la Dialectologie Rwandaise.” B.A. Thesis, Université Nationale du Rwanda, 1984. Print.
  • ―. “Prosodologie Contrastive du Rushobyo et du Kinyarwanda Standard.” Diss. Université de Nice, 1988. Print. Saarbrücken: Éditions Universitaires Européennes, 2013.

My, it’s gotten late again! Making progress, though—more tomorrow!

19 July 2014

6–10 July 2014: Catching Up, Part 1

There was a time when I characterized this as a daily blog. Clearly, that was over-optimistic! I am going to make a sincere effort to keep up for my remaining ten days in Rwanda, but for now I want to catch myself up. Generally, what I have been doing is research work, as well as projects back home (at The Crimson and working on scholarship applications). For the rest of this post, I’ll try to summarize what I did on each day since my last about… oh dear, two weeks ago!


Sunday, 6 July 2014

Went to church—the theme was how God watches over us, but is not like a security camera because of his deep care for our well-being. Had some very good capati afterward—two nice big loaves at Fr. 100 (14¢) each! Did some photo-editing in the afternoon.

In the evening, my host-father and his mother (who was staying over after the wedding for a couple of days) turned on the TV. Whether by choice or chance, they ended up watching a French dub of the recently remade “Lone Ranger,” which was a truly bizarre scene to observe. He had to explain to her what a horse was, because those are not native to sub-Saharan Africa, and she kept asking whether he was sure they weren’t dogs. Both were pretty confused by Tonto, though—as were many Americans, actually, by Johnny Depp’s performance.


Monday, 7 July 2014

Had a meeting with a professor whose contact information I had been given in relation to dialect research. He was extremely helpful and qualified, having taught courses about Kinyarwanda dialects in the past. He offered to prepare me a list of sources, with a note about where I could find them; he sent it to me later that night, and it was just about what I was looking for. Also, it turned out he had a lot of the material in question and would be willing to lend them to me… which was pretty great.

On the way back from that meeting, I happened to see a store selling ice cream. This was kind of a big thing, because it’s really not easy to find ice cream in this country! I caved pretty quickly—avocados and mangos are great, but only sustain me for so long—and consumed a fairly large container of it on the bus ride home.

Later, I went over to the Ministry of Education to see about renewing my research permit, but the person I needed to see wasn’t there. Oh well.


Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Didn’t leave the house much, just for a short walk. I spent a lot of time very carefully reading one paper that the professor had given me a copy of before:

Nkusi Laurent, “Une Problème de Glossonymie : Les Appellations du Kinyarwanda.” Etudes Rwandaises 1.2 (1987).

It is apparently a very important article in the field, so I read it, typed it all into the computer (to make sure I understood it all) and even took the trouble to translate it to English. The problem Nkusi addresses is the numerous names that exist for different varieties of Kinyarwanda, which very often do not equate to actually different dialects. (For example, two neighboring regions might speak the same dialect but call it different things.) He reviews past work and assesses evidence for the existence of different dialects that vary regionally, ethnically and socially, and ends up with a framework that shaped the field for the following decades.


Wednesday, 9 July 2014

Again went to the Ministry of Education; I did find the guy I needed, who was very nice, and kindly informed me that I needed to apply to renew my research permit at least a month before its expiration date (tomorrow). I told him I could bring an application the next day, and he said that was fine.

I could have, and probably should have, made my application earlier, like as soon as I got into the country. I didn’t do so because I did not think I would need a research permit for what I was doing. Either way, the system is well designed for people staying in the country for a long period of time, but not really for those leaving and then coming back: there are no online instructions for how to renew a research permit, and it must be submitted in person. I was not in Rwanda a month before my permit expired… anyway, it seemed like it was working out.

For the record, renewing a research permit is pretty much the same as applying in the first place, except the cover letter and the letter from the affiliating institution have to give a reason for the renewal.


O.K., now I am going to go to bed, but I will continue my catching up tomorrow. (Maybe if I make a public statement like this, I will feel more pressure to actually do it!)

15 July 2014

5 July 2014: Another Thing

I just remembered something I wanted to work into the previous post, and I can’t find a place for it, so I will put it in a separate post here.

It is about language. The basic principle is that, in Kinyarwanda, almost everything is a verb: like, even nouns are verbs, at least in that most of them are derived in verbs. This reflects a basic and really interesting characteristic of the language: that there seems to be a pretty small number of actual words that are indivisible and not derived from anything else. A full range of meanings is attained by modifying that small number of basic roots.

Thus, the root -gur- gives us kugura “buy,” kuguriisha “sell,” kuguza “collect on a loan” and ikiguzi “price,” among others. Notice how those concepts are expressed with unrelated words in English, but in Kinyarwanda are all related. This pattern recurs constantly, and every couple of days a new connection occurs to me that I hadn’t thought of before.

The one I want to share here is not only one of the most dramatic, but relevant to the situation. So there is a verb gukwá, which means “to pay a bride-price.” The root of this verb is -kó-, but in the full word /ku-kó-a/ the sounds transform a little bit such that the o becomes a w and the high tone moves to the remaining vowel.

The first derivation I want to highlight is fairly straightforward, and it’s a word I learned very recently; inkwáano, which means “bride-price.” Now we parse this word as /in-kó-an-o/, where -an- extends the verb to make it reciprocal—i.e. “to pay each other bride-prices,” sort of—and the first and last segments are what make it a noun. So this word means “things that are given as bride-prices,” sort of. It’s worth emphasizing that in Kinyarwanda the verb is the base, whereas in English the noun is.

The second derivation is ubukwé. Before I tell you what it means, there are no extensions on the verb, just different prefixes and suffixes to make it a noun: /ubu-kó-é/. The prefix ubu- implies a time or place, so this would be understood to mean “a time when bride-prices are exchanged.” This is the Kinyarwanda word for “wedding.” I literally knew this word for two years, and only figured this out last week (at the wedding, as it happened).

Finally, and craziest of all, is what happens when you passivize that verb before nominalizing it. /ku-kó-w-a/ comes out as gukóobwa “to be given a bride-price,” where -w- is the passive marker. If we make this verb into a noun, /umu-kó-w-a/, we get umukoóbwa “someone who is given a bride-price.” This is the Kinyarwanda word for “girl.”

Think about that for a minute: The same verb, transformed into a noun by common, accepted rules, gives us the words for “bride-price,” “wedding” and “girl.” Is that not crazy?